Waxing

[Don50BMG]

Anybody know when I can wax and coat my incoming RHO, any recommendations on type of wax and coating's.

 

[OBYsRHO]

Sooner the better. And you can do your truck a favor by not having the dealer detail it. Had the worst swirl marks on mine. Also what do you mean by wax and coat? I had zero experience in detailing but was able to do paint correction and ceramic coat my rho myself just by spending a few days on youtube

 

[Banger]

Anybody know when I can wax and coat my incoming RHO, any recommendations on type of wax and coating's.

Wax is 20th Century. Ceramic coating is 21st Century. I'm new to this as well, but plenty of resources here on this forum on ceramic coating. You can do it yourself, or a lot of the folks here have a detailer apply it.

 

[Don50BMG]

Wax is 20th Century. Ceramic coating is 21st Century. I'm new to this as well, but plenty of resources here on this forum on ceramic coating. You can do it yourself, or a lot of the folks here have a detailer apply it.

Thank you

 

[Banger]

Depending on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go, you can check out PPF (paint protection film) also. This will offer some protection from scratches, rocks chips, etc. Generally you'll have a shop install it. You can get it in clear or matte finish. You can PPF the whole truck (you'd want to if you choose the matte finish) or can do just certain areas. You can also use the ceramic coat on top of the PPF to make it easier to clean.

What I did was go with PPF in the high impact areas (hood, painted areas above bumpers, rocker panels, lower doors and lower area of bed. Then I had the whole thing ceramic coated.

 

[RAM-Ranch-MT]

 

[Banger]

And afterwards, you paint the fence.

 

[Don50BMG]

Depending on how far down the rabbit hole you want to go, you can check out PPF (paint protection film) also. This will offer some protection from scratches, rocks chips, etc. Generally you'll have a shop install it. You can get it in clear or matte finish. You can PPF the whole truck (you'd want to if you choose the matte finish) or can do just certain areas. You can also use the ceramic coat on top of the PPF to make it easier to clean.

What I did was go with PPF in the high impact areas (hood, painted areas above bumpers, rocker panels, lower doors and lower area of bed. Then I had the whole thing ceramic coated.

Thanks

 

[RAM-Ranch-MT]

Im going to ceramic coat mine. Under $200 and a few hours of my time. local shops wanted $1500-2500 for 1-3 year ceramic and im like, bro its fucking ceramic and a brand new truck, that shit should not take 10 hours to install that you claim.
For $1500 i can buy a whole roll of top tier vinyl and wrap the whole damn thing in the same 10 hrs . They are Throwing on Bozeman tax for living in the most expensive california overrun shithole there is.

 

[Irongoats]

What brand ceramic are you going with? I'm thinking Chemical Guys Carbon Force for mine like you under $200.

 

[RHOfan]

Ceramic coating is the easy part…check out Adam’s Advanced Graphine spray kit. They have videos on the site. Easiest “wax job” you will ever do. And it lasts at least 6 months. Don’t fall for these 3-9 year products, unless you really don't want to look at or think about your paint’s condition.

Personally I want to maintain my finish, which means polishing out any scuffs that get introduced with normal use. Polishing requires re-application of the ceramic.

The hard part:
Get the finish perfect prior to ceramic coating. That means removing any contaminants and polishing any swirls/scuffs.

If you don’t have the dealer detail it, there should be minimal to zero swirls/scuffs.

To check for contamination, which should be minimal unless your truck sat outside for a period of time at a storage yard, put a plastic sandwich bag over your hand (it “amplifies” the contaminants) and rub it over the clean surface. If it feels smooth, you are ready to ceramic coat. If you feel bumps, it’s time to gently clay bar.

Why gently? So you don’t introduce any scratches into the clear. “Gently” simply means use lots & lots of detail spray & just skim the clay over the finish, being careful to use only a clean clay against the surface.

Mine had some acid rain damage from sitting 30+days in a storage yard. It can be hard to see, unless you have intense LED lights. Mine weren’t bad enough to require a machine polisher. I was able to remove them by hand using Swirl & Haze remover (it has rouging abrasives) followed by a light hand polish.

Most people’s biggest challenge is washing the truck. That is where 90% of paint damage is done. Watch the Garry Dean method on YouTube to get an idea of how to safely wash your truck.

 

[MattH89]

Ceramic coating is the easy part…check out Adam’s Advanced Graphine spray kit. They have videos on the site. Easiest “wax job” you will ever do. And it lasts at least 6 months. Don’t fall for these 3-9 year products, unless you really don't want to look at or think about your paint’s condition.

Personally I want to maintain my finish, which means polishing out any scuffs that get introduced with normal use. Polishing requires re-application of the ceramic.

The hard part:
Get the finish perfect prior to ceramic coating. That means removing any contaminants and polishing any swirls/scuffs.

If you don’t have the dealer detail it, there should be minimal to zero swirls/scuffs.

To check for contamination, which should be minimal unless your truck sat outside for a period of time at a storage yard, put a plastic sandwich bag over your hand (it “amplifies” the contaminants) and rub it over the clean surface. If it feels smooth, you are ready to ceramic coat. If you feel bumps, it’s time to gently clay bar.

Why gently? So you don’t introduce any scratches into the clear. “Gently” simply means use lots & lots of detail spray & just skim the clay over the finish, being careful to use only a clean clay against the surface.

There's no way to clay without introducing micro abrasions/marring, no matter how gently you do it. Definitely want to do a one stage polish afterwards. If you're going to do ceramic which will last years, don't get lazy on the prep to save a few hours.

But also, your truck, do what you want.

 

[MtHillbilly]

Sooner the better. And you can do your truck a favor by not having the dealer detail it. Had the worst swirl marks on mine. Also what do you mean by wax and coat? I had zero experience in detailing but was able to do paint correction and ceramic coat my rho myself just by spending a few days on youtube

I had mine ceramic coated, and as stated, the sooner the better .. less paint correction! Also, as stated above, remember the dealer is paying some one +$ to do the window tint bed liner etc, if you can find the place they send their work to, you will find you can get the same people to do yours cheaper!

 

[RAM-Ranch-MT]

What brand ceramic are you going with? I'm thinking Chemical Guys Carbon Force for mine like you under $200.

Great stuff guys, definitely want to take your time and listen to the wise words of wisdom . As far as product, I am leaning towards this one, I've heard great things and had good luck with p&s products. Alot of pro detailers recommend them . This and a good clay bar kit and so on .

Amazon.com

 

[OBYsRHO]

What brand ceramic are you going with? I'm thinking Chemical Guys Carbon Force for mine like you under $200.

I used cerakote their revised formula. I went with thus one since I heard it was easy to apply and it was my first time. I had nothing to compare it to but it was very easy to apply. It was also $60 for two bottles in case I messed up

 

[OBYsRHO]

There's no way to clay without introducing micro abrasions/marring, no matter how gently you do it. Definitely want to do a one stage polish afterwards. If you're going to do ceramic which will last years, don't get lazy on the prep to save a few hours.

But also, your truck, do what you want.

Yeah what he said. It was thanks to @MattH89 that got me started with the whole detailing. I think he was a pro detailer so he knows his stuff

 

[Don50BMG]

Wax is 20th Century. Ceramic coating is 21st Century. I'm new to this as well, but plenty of resources here on this forum on ceramic coating. You can do it yourself, or a lot of the folks here have a detailer apply it.

Ceramic coatings are great if the go on correctly, if not they are hard to get off, I don't waxing every couple of months.

 

[daniellelaven022]

I would do it right after you take delivery and don’t have the dealer wash it if you can that’s where you get a lot of swirl marks. They aren’t professional detailers most either are in high school or right outta high school. Had mine ceramic coated recently the gentleman used System X brand wish I had it done after delivery but was in the shop and what not. when we finally were able to get her properly cleaned up there was a bunch of micro swirls assuming from dealer when they washed it off the delivery truck.

 

[Don50BMG]

I would do it right after you take delivery and don’t have the dealer wash it if you can that’s where you get a lot of swirl marks. They aren’t professional detailers most either are in high school or right outta high school. Had mine ceramic coated recently the gentleman used System X brand wish I had it done after delivery but was in the shop and what not. when we finally were able to get her properly cleaned up there was a bunch of micro swirls assuming from dealer when they washed it off the delivery truck.

Thank You

 

[JS59]

Great stuff guys, definitely want to take your time and listen to the wise words of wisdom . As far as product, I am leaning towards this one, I've heard great things and had good luck with p&s products. Alot of pro detailers recommend them . This and a good clay bar kit and so on .

Amazon.com

Pretty good vid I found doing a relatively scientific comparison vs. just "I like this one". Good info here IMO and really shows the differences between 8 or so low-end to mid-grade (or at least one!) options.