Break In Period for those Picking Up

[MattH89]

I'm seeing a decent amount of people talking about flying to their ordering dealer and driving their truck home. How are you all planning to handle the break in period here? Back roads?

I can putz around town for a bit, but wouldn't want to be the guy doing 50 on the freeway.

 

[Dcchris311]

I'll be driving down to Mark Dodge to pick my RHO and make the 350 mile drive back to Melissa Tx. I plan on hitting all RPMs throughout the drive. Initially, I'll keep it low for the first ~200miles and then I'll do some WOT runs. I did the same with my BMW. No issues, it made to ~82k miles with 0 engine issues. It got totaled, which why I stopped at at 82k.

 

[MattH89]

I'll be driving down to Mark Dodge to pick my RHO and make the 350 mile drive back to Melissa Tx. I plan on hitting all RPMs throughout the drive. Initially, I'll keep it low for the first ~200miles and then I'll do some WOT runs. I did the same with my BMW. No issues, it made to ~82k miles with 0 engine issues. It got totaled, which why I stopped at at 82k.

This is what I'm used to, as well, but I've seen some insane guidance floating around this forum.

 

[Leov36]

I’m driving 500 miles back from Koons. I’ll just do whatever the manual says. My 6.4 charger had a break in procedure that was outlined in the manual. I’d imagine the RHO should have the same.

 

[Joe86]

Still not sure.. I'm about 1200 miles away. I'm fine with the drive but don't know if it is good to do this.

 

[Leov36]

And I’m pretty sure they never recommend WOT in the first 500 miles.

 

[Dcchris311]

And I’m pretty sure they never recommend WOT in the first 500 miles.

Yeah, I'm pretty they don't but it's okay. I'm not afraid of what the outcome will be if it I do go WOT. Lots of things are recommended, but people still do as they wish. I'll also be switching over to AMSOIL after 5k and then following it up with 7.5k intervals for oil changes. I did this with my BMW , which was tuned and running E30 and 0 issues. I know there different engines.

 

[JLM512]

For my TRX I flew to granger and drive it back to austin. The break in period was annoying but I just put a sign on my back windows that said I couldn’t go over certain speed due to a new vehicle break in period. Didn’t have any issues, most people just sped around me after a second or two of me driving and reading my sign. Took it off after I passed the mileage threshold and was good to go

 

[RHOfan]

Yeah, I'm pretty they don't but it's okay. I'm not afraid of what the outcome will be if it I do go WOT. Lots of things are recommended, but people still do as they wish. I'll also be switching over to AMSOIL after 5k and then following it up with 7.5k intervals for oil changes. I did this with my BMW , which was tuned and running E30 and 0 issues. I know there different engines.

The 2025 Ram 1500 (incl RHO) owner’s manual is available on this site & online.

Surprisingly, it does not recommend the industry standard 10K mile oil changes for RHO. If I recall correctly, regular service interval is 6K miles, severe service interval is 4K miles. This engine sees lots of boost. It’s no joke.

These engines also have plasma spray bores (super hard surface), so there is very little cylinder/piston ring wear/break-in, though other moving engine parts may enjoy a little TLC. Your differentials will definitely benefit from a 500 mile break-in. All that amounts to is avoiding sudden changes in torque load. So, full throttle is fine for the diffs so long as you gradually depress the throttle. I’d probably do it in 1st gear to avoid any sudden downshifts & upshift as I released the throttle.

I’m sure there’s more to learn, but that’s my $0.02 for now.

 

[Dcchris311]

The 2025 Ram 1500 (incl RHO) owner’s manual is available on this site & online.

Surprisingly, it does not recommend the industry standard 10K mile oil changes for RHO. If I recall correctly, regular service interval is 6K miles, severe service interval is 4K miles. This engine sees lots of boost. It’s no joke.

These engines also have plasma spray bores (super hard surface), so there is very little cylinder/piston ring wear/break-in, though other moving engine parts may enjoy a little TLC. Your differentials will definitely benefit from a 500 mile break-in. All that amounts to is avoiding sudden changes in torque load. So, full throttle is fine for the diffs so long as you gradually depress the throttle. I’d probably do it in 1st gear to avoid any sudden downshifts & upshift as I released the throttle.

I’m sure there’s more to learn, but that’s my $0.02 for now.

I wasn't aware of the service, I was going the standard that you mentioned. I don't playn on launching it right away or at low miles, if that's what's being interpreted from what I originally posted then that's my fault for not going into more details. I'm going to do exactly as you mentioned, ease into WOT after ~200 miles. Launches will occur a couple of hundred miles later.

You can just move over to "manual" shifting to keep it from down/up shifting.

I feel like this topic is up there with talking about politics. People freak out when give them your thoughts on it haha.

AGAIN this is what I do. I'm not advising others to do it. Do what you feel you comfortable are with.

 

[JMTAS4]

After a plane ticket from VA to LA, then gas and most likely a hotel, probably cheaper to ship it for me. My time is way more valuable and I put about 40k/yr on a vehicle

 

[yoda33073]

After a plane ticket from VA to LA, then gas and most likely a hotel, probably cheaper to ship it for me. My time is way more valuable and I put about 40k/yr on a vehicle

Why didn't you order from Koon's in Va?

 

[No_LU-G]

Must’ve had a bad experience

 

[Cautionary Tale]

I'll be driving down to Mark Dodge to pick my RHO and make the 350 mile drive back to Melissa Tx. I plan on hitting all RPMs throughout the drive. Initially, I'll keep it low for the first ~200miles and then I'll do some WOT runs. I did the same with my BMW. No issues, it made to ~82k miles with 0 engine issues. It got totaled, which why I stopped at at 82k.

You are in for a shocker, but WOT before 1k is no bueno, to make it easier on ya the RHO has a nanny mode for the first 800 or so miles that will prevent WOT. After blowing lots of race motors with various break in methods that have floated out there through the years, I now take the first 1k super easy and follow the directions in owners-manual, low RPM's but that doesn't mean I can't do freeway with 8spd trans, then change the oil, send sample in for testing and see what all was in initial wear-in. I'll change dif and trans fluid at 5k and send those in as well. I like a baseline of what shaved down and to know if I'll be having any exciting issues down the way. After that, warm the engine and trans before driving it like I'm in GTA

I'll be flying out and driving home (with a friend), I plan to get in late and have a night of fun in New Orleans, then early pick-up and I'll do sideroads to Dallas (513 miles) then spend the night there, then highway home. Making a weekend of it.

Oil changes on FI trucks as mentioned above will be more frequent and depends on how you drive it. If you drive like your neighborhood is your private track then every 2500 isn't a bad idea. Take samples and the results will bare this out. 5k for Normal driving is as high as I'd go.

I can't recall where I read the nanny mode, but until I find it, this is break in for a standard output:

This is from 2025 RAM 1500 (Standard Output Hurricane) Owner's Manual:
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided. The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grade

**If you like knowledge, science and not going off hearsay and feelings, there is a GREAT youtube channel that will blow some minds, "The Motor Oil Geek". I made my wife watch some of his videos to hopefully help her "remember" to tell me when the maintenance lights is illuminated. I set it up to go off 3k early and by the time she tells me it seems to be spot on right time

 

[Jpikuls]

I'm seeing a decent amount of people talking about flying to their ordering dealer and driving their truck home. How are you all planning to handle the break in period here? Back roads?

I can putz around town for a bit, but wouldn't want to be the guy doing 50 on the freeway.

This makes zero sense.

 

[Dcchris311]

You are in for a shocker, but WOT before 1k is no bueno, to make it easier on ya the RHO has a granny mode for the first 800 or so miles that will prevent WOT. After blowing lots of race motors with various break in methods that have floated out there through the years, I now take the first 1k super easy, low RPM's but that doesn't mean can't do freeway with 8spd trans, then change the oil, send sample in for testing and see what all was in initial wear-in. I'll change dif and trans fluid at 5k and send those in as well. I like a baseline of what shaved down and to know if I'll be having any exciting issues down the way. After that, warm the engine and trans before driving it like I'm in GTA

Oil changes on FI trucks as mentioned above will be more frequent and depends on how you drive it. If you drive like your neighborhood is your private track then every 2500 isn't a bad idea. Take samples and the results will bare this out. 5k for Normal driving is as high as I'd go.

I can't recall where I read the nanny mode, but until I find it, this is break in for a standard output:

This is from 2025 RAM 1500 (Standard Output Hurricane) Owner's Manual:
ENGINE BREAK-IN RECOMMENDATIONS A long break-in period is not required for the engine and drivetrain (transmission and axle) in your vehicle. Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable. While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good breakin. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided. The engine oil installed in the engine at the factory is a high-quality energy conserving type lubricant. Oil changes should be consistent with anticipated climate conditions under which vehicle operations will occur. For the recommended viscosity and quality grade

I'm not sure where you're getting the "granny" mode from but I haven't it anywhere. This isn't a race engine, which have much tighter tolerances than the Hurricane, a mass produce engine with wider tolerances.

You somewhat reinforced what I said in my other post regarding WOT. The manual itself states that WOT is okay for a GOOD break in. Beside it the fact that doing a WOT in a low gear is bad, which should be common sense. It also states that 300 miles is good enough.

 

[Cautionary Tale]

I'm not sure where you're getting the "granny" mode from but I haven't it anywhere. This isn't a race engine, which have much tighter tolerances than the Hurricane, a mass produce engine with wider tolerances.

You somewhat reinforced what I said in my other post regarding WOT. The manual itself states that WOT is okay for a GOOD break in. Beside it the fact that doing a WOT in a low gear is bad, which should be common sense. It also states that 300 miles is good enough. View attachment 661

Meant to type "nanny mode" but that's EXACTLY what I quoted above, but "brief" and "cruising" are a little ambiguous, as is "required". Lots of things aren't "required" but that doesn't necessarily mean that we shouldn't do them.

It really comes down to how long you plan on keeping the truck and how much you believe automakers provide knowledge to extend the life of vehicles vs trying to get us into new vehicles. Check out that youtube guy I posted above and PM me your thoughts. I think it'll be enjoyable if nothing else. His oil testing matches my own and fluid testing has vastly changed my perspective on what is and isn't ideal. Especially when it comes to "Lifetime" transmission fluid.

As I said, the owners manual is for SO, RHO will have a proviso that will indicate something about 800 mile inability for WOT or FULL THROTTLE. I will find it, and attach when I get a little time. Trucks aren't here today and I got a busy Sunday of honey-do's.

 

[Dcchris311]

Meant to type "nanny mode" but that's EXACTLY what I quoted above, but "brief" and "cruising" are a little ambiguous, as is "required". Lots of things aren't "required" but that doesn't necessarily mean that we shouldn't do them.

It really comes down to how long you plan on keeping the truck and how much you believe automakers provide knowledge to extend the life of vehicles vs trying to get us into new vehicles. Check out that youtube guy I posted above and PM me your thoughts. I think it'll be enjoyable if nothing else. His oil testing matches my own and fluid testing has vastly changed my perspective on what is and isn't ideal. Especially when it comes to "Lifetime" transmission fluid.

As I said, the owners manual is for SO, RHO will have a proviso that will indicate something about 800 mile inability for WOT or FULL THROTTLE. I will find it, and attach when I get a little time. Trucks aren't here today and I got a busy Sunday of honey-do's.

That mode doesn't exist. I've searched the PDF version. There's no such thing as "life-time" oil, if you look up the ZF maintenance schedule from the manufacturer(ZF), they tell you when to change the transmission oil.

 

[Irongoats]

Break in? Never heard of her.

 

[Cautionary Tale]

That mode doesn't exist. I've searched the PDF version. There's no such thing as "life-time" oil, if you look up the ZF maintenance schedule from the manufacturer(ZF), they tell you when to change the transmission oil.

Incorrect, it isn't called a "nanny mode" but that's what I call it. You can search and search but lots of manufacturers have them and implement them with ETC-Electronic Throttle Control Limiting, Engine Control Module Programming (ECM), Rev Limiters, Software-based power limiting, etc.

The End User (EU) might not "see" any of these things, but they are very much there. If for instance if you tried to smash the pedal, the vehicle just won't allow WOT, and you might feel like the vehicle is just slow. Rev limiters act much in a similar way, just changing gears sooner, and on and on. I know our trucks will have these, and as I say, I read in official literature, or maybe saw on a webinar with the head engineer that RHO will have this until first 800 miles. I could be wrong on miles, they could change it too, but 800 is sticking a neuron that I can't shake.