Marker Lights

[Eighty]

Only a few zip ties holding the motor in right ?

Yeah but they’re industrial strength zip ties. Bring your big-boy snips.

 

[jb37]

I’m gonna give it one more go again tomorrow - make sure I didn’t miss anything

There is a super small chance the female spade clip somehow wasn’t making good contact on the f32 post … not a lot of room in that fuse hole … I had the meter on the clip and not directly on the fuse post

 

[Eighty]

I’m gonna give it one more go again tomorrow - make sure I didn’t miss anything

There is a super small chance the female spade clip somehow wasn’t making good contact on the f32 post … not a lot of room in that fuse hole … I had the meter on the clip and not directly on the fuse post

Given that the hot side of F32 is providing constant power, I think there’s only one explanation. The BCM relay is downstream.

 

[cconnorhtx]

Howdy gents, has anyone been able to better decipher what's going on in the fuse box to get these marker lights on full time (sans smoke test of course)?

 

[jb37]

unfortunately no magic ive found yet - although somewhat gave up after testing the TRX method ... I think we were fingers crossed Tazer would give us a software option when available for RHO

 

[Jimmy07]

This is going to be completely different than doing it on a TRX. The clearance lamps are not run off of a fused circuit in the fuse box like the TRX. F32 is irrelevant, that is a main battery power fuse for the BCM for its exterior lighting.
It’s hard to track this down on the schematics because the clearance lamps aren’t shown on any of the factory service manual schematics.

I did find what I believe to be the circuit for the clearance lamps though, in the connector sheets. Looks like the feed wire is the white/green wire in position 60 of the black C5 BCM connector (circled below).
You would pull that wire out, attach a fuse tap to it, and add it to fuse F54B on the interior fuse box.
I have no idea how the BCM would react to not having the load on that circuit anymore, so the better way to do this (if that ends up being the correct circuit) is to leave that wire intact in the bcm, and tap into it while using two diodes.

 

[IvanNik]

@Jimmy07 age you going to try it?

 

[Jimmy07]

@Jimmy07 age you going to try it?

No RHO for me, just letting you guys know how it’ll have to be done.

 

[Jdmdc5teg06]

Who's the brave soul with their RHO to try this out?

 

[IvanNik]

I would try.
Is there also the option to have amber DRL? (I've seen everyone is considering Tazer for that, but I personally don't want to connect Tazer.)

 

[IvanNik]

@Jimmy07 where I can get access to the wire diagrams? could you share?

 

[Jimmy07]

@Jimmy07 where I can get access to the wire diagrams? could you share?

You can get them here via subscription:

Stellantis Independent Operator Portal

stellantisiop.com

 

[Jdmdc5teg06]

Anyone going to try and go this route to try it out? I would now that I have my truck but I don’t know anything about electronics or anything. Definitely scared since I’ve never messed with electrical or wiring before unless I have an exact step by step guide knowing it will 100% work

 

[IvanNik]

Well, if anyone could share electrical diagrams that would be nice.
Otherwise I have few projects in front of this one.

The stellantis portal is terrible, I didn’t understand how to get access if you are not a dealer

 

[RAM-Ranch-MT]

Well, if anyone could share electrical diagrams that would be nice.
Otherwise I have few projects in front of this one.

The stellantis portal is terrible, I didn’t understand how to get access if you are not a dealer

Bro I don't even think stellantis knows the electrical diagrams yet in order to publish them based on all the gremlins hahahahah